| Author |
Message |
   
Hellenophile
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 08:35 am EST : |  
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In contrast to this time last week a beautiful frosty morning but not much in flower in the greenhouse so hope a few pictures showing a range of C. rohlfsianum leaves might be of interest.
Hellenophile
- Surrey,
Zone "?"
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Dee_b
Supporting Member
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 09:44 am EST : |  
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Wow! I particularly like the bottom right plant in the 4th photo..the one with more silver in the leaf. Rohlfsianum is another species that doesn't do well for me(graecum being the other) I've got some that are only just breaking bud...in December!? and others are completely dormant. I can only think it's lack of sunshine (a summer baking)....I do everything else by the book. Can you give us any 'tips' on getting such lush foliage. I notice that all your tubers are covered with grit. I tend to leave my tubers exposed...to get more sun; could that be causing me problems?
Dee_b
- West Midlands,
Zone "7"
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Terryk

Supporting Member
My Weather
My Garden
My Time
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 10:39 am EST : |  
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Wow again! I think the leaf patterns far outway the flowers in cyclamen. The only ones that rank high are the scented flowers. One could look over their cyclamen collectin and study the leaves for hours on end. I vote the second leaf pattern as #1. Dee I am still trying to grow my plants as well as the other people in this forum. I took Tim's suggestion and put my greaecum outdoors this fall and they looked their best. Now that they are indoors again (no glasshouse) they are leggy again. I have lights, but have to limit the number-the electric bill is a sore point during winter hours
Terryk
- NY,
Zone "6"
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Dee_b
Supporting Member
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 11:08 am EST : |  
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I do think I should be growing them outdoors Terry, I'm sure graecum and rohlfsianum would benefit from the direct sunshine, and the rear of the house faces south west.... but I have a problem
He and his friends dig up and eat anything thats in a pot, he's eaten a lovely spring bulb collection I planted in that basket. I'll have to think about how to outwit the squirrel...I dont want him eating my rohlfsianum!
Dee_b
- West Midlands,
Zone "7"
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Terryk

Supporting Member
My Weather
My Garden
My Time
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 02:36 pm EST : |  
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Dee. it looks adorable in the basket but I am with you-that squirrel would not be welcome in my yard either!
Terryk
- NY,
Zone "6"
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Tim
Supporting Member
| | Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 03:02 pm EST : |  
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Melvyn, what's your summer regime for C. rohlfsianum? Do you withhold all water, or do you keep the plants just moist at the bottom?
Tim
- Cambridgeshire,
Zone "7 "
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Hellenophile
| | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2007 - 04:57 pm EST : |  
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Dee and Tim, I will attempt to answer both of your questions
I think the lush foliage is a combination of the fact that they are all selected plants and the majority are quite old ie in my collection more than ten years. I leave my C. rohlfsianum with no water from April until September when the plants get a good soaking, often by immersing the plant pots in water until the bubbles stop and they dont get watered again until the flowers are well developed. I do feed the plants with liquid feed of the seaweed extract type. Feeding is on a sporadic basis, plants get repotted about every four years with the tuber placed a fraction below the surface and then covered with grit mainly to keep it looking tidy.Most of my plants are in clay pots but I think younger plants do better in plastic pots. I must be doing something right because most years I get a really good seed crop.
Hellenophile
- Surrey,
Zone "?"
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Tony_willis
| | Posted on Friday, December 21, 2007 - 07:22 pm EST : |  
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my system is basically the same regime except this is the one species for which I use plastic pots.The reason for this is because I have them in the house on a windowsill in the winter from about early November and they would dry out too quickly in clay.This is because it is to damp in the greenhouse and they get mould if grown in there I store them dry in the utility room on a shelf for the summer so they are not baked but are warm.
Tony_willis
- Lancashire,
Zone "7"
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Galanthophile

Supporting Member
My Favorite Photo
My Garden
| | Posted on Saturday, December 22, 2007 - 06:24 am EST : |  
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Stunning foliage! A fantastic collection!
Galanthophile
- Ann (Northern England),
Zone "8"
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Dee_b
Supporting Member
| | Posted on Saturday, December 22, 2007 - 03:39 pm EST : |  
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Melvyn & Tony, Thank you both for sharing your regimes with us......I will be trying them out next season.
Dee_b
- West Midlands,
Zone "7"
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Hellenophile
| | Posted on Saturday, December 22, 2007 - 04:02 pm EST : |  
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Having said that I think younger plants do better in plastic pots I thought a couple of pictures might help to show what I mean, these plants are three years old and will be potted up individually next year.
Hellenophile
- Surrey,
Zone "?"
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Terryk

Supporting Member
My Weather
My Garden
My Time
| | Posted on Saturday, December 22, 2007 - 05:22 pm EST : |  
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Melvyn, what a great collection. What size pot is that and about how many seeds do you sow in each pot?
Terryk
- NY,
Zone "6"
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Dee_b
Supporting Member
| | Posted on Saturday, December 22, 2007 - 06:12 pm EST : |  
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Melyvn, I've got to echo Terry..what a great collection; the leaf patterns are gorgeous, I can certainly see a few show winners in there. I long for my plants to look like those....you wouldn't get me out of the greenhouse!
Dee_b
- West Midlands,
Zone "7"
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Tony_willis
| | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 08:03 am EST : |  
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here are the three I grow.The first is from Tilebarn and the second and third are cast offs from a friend. The last is a one year seedling from a prize winning plant that looks promising.This germinated last year and a further seven have germinated this autumn from Tilebarn
this one has set a lot of seed this autumn
seedling
Tony_willis
- Lancashire,
Zone "7"
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Terryk

Supporting Member
My Weather
My Garden
My Time
| | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 08:13 am EST : |  
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Tony I like the cast offs you acquired.
Terryk
- NY,
Zone "6"
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Hellenophile
| | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 12:38 pm EST : |  
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Terry, thanks for raising this, its such an obvious point which I should have put in the text. The size of the square pot is just over 7" on each side and the largest leaf on the lower left hand side of the picture is just over 3" across. The round pot is 7" diameter and the largest leaf on the top left hand side is just under 3" across. I didnt sow the seeds into these pots , I selected about a dozen seedlings for each pot after the first true leaf developed if they looked promising.I think seedlings can do better in a community pot like those shown and the plants tend to bulk up more quickly than those planted singly at a young age, it also has the advantage that they take up less room when you are still evaluating the quality of the young plants.
Hellenophile
- Surrey,
Zone "?"
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Terryk

Supporting Member
My Weather
My Garden
My Time
| | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 01:48 pm EST : |  
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Thanks for the explanation. I have followed Tim's instructions and transplanted my seedlings into single pots the first year. I am sure this might bring on quite a discussion of this point. I did find the ones I transplanted early on the first year did do better than the ones left in the seedling pot. However, your idea appeals to me too because at this point I am out of room and have been forced to leave them in the pots the germinated in.
Terryk
- NY,
Zone "6"
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Tim
Supporting Member
| | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 02:18 pm EST : |  
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If nothing else, the opinions on this forum demonstrate just how adaptable cyclamen can be. I've had a lot of success pricking out cyclamen into individual pots at the cotyledon stage, but it's important to emphasis the point that my whole regime revolves around the seedlings being pricked out at such an early stage. They certainly have to watered more carefully and the pricking out has to be done delicately so that the very fine roots suffer as little damage as possible. I think that most growers would be with Melvyn on this, and that they grow the seedlings on together in a community pot for a few years before potting them up individually. Terry, I guess it's been successful for you because essentially, you have adopted the same cultivation techniques as me, from seed sowing onwards. Keeping the plants in community pots will save you some room though; until they all need potting on that is :-)
Tim
- Cambridgeshire,
Zone "7 "
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Terryk

Supporting Member
My Weather
My Garden
My Time
| | Posted on Sunday, December 23, 2007 - 05:00 pm EST : |  
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You know I am bursting at the seams, I think it's too late for the advise. And I still have to sow more each year. How bad am I?
Terryk
- NY,
Zone "6"
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Jan_bravenboer
| | Posted on Monday, December 24, 2007 - 01:49 am EST : |  
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When I visited Ashwood Nurseries I spoke to Philip Baulk. He told me that C. purpurascens grows much faster when there are more seedlings in one pot. When I visit some growers here in the Netherlands they will tell you like Tim does. They all put a little two month old seedling in a 9 x 9 cm. pot. Within 12 month they grow a C. coum or C. hederifolium plant (tuber 3-4 cm.) with 20 flowers ! The right temperature, the right soil, the right moisture, the right fertilizer. Regards, Jan
Jan_bravenboer
- -,
Zone "7/8"
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Berthold
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