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Climbers and Trellis for this back wall

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Bluewillow  Send Bluewillow a private message!


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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 08:01 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have been racking my brain, trying to think of a better way to attach a trellis to the back wall below, so that I can plant some climbers at the foot going right up the wall.

Looks like I found the answer in this link posted in another thread in here:

http://www.westvalleyrose.org/roseinfo/climbersinthelandscape.html

Here is the wall am trying to cover, between the 2 windows, this area get the morning sun of over 6hrs due to it facing S.E



Your thoughts? I am hoping Missgarden and anyon else can do their photoshop magic here, not just for the climber, but for some suggestion as to which flowers to plant in front of the bed.

Cheers

Bluewillow - Canada, Zone "Zone 5"
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Jeanne  Send Jeanne a private message!



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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 08:59 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


I just love Rosepersons site..she is on Gardenweb!!..She was my inspiration years ago..I bought wire fencing in rolls at Lowe's, cut to my desired length and attached onto my brick to plant my climbing roses and clematis as well..when I hard prune my clematis..you can't even see the wire fencing on my brick from the street!!
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Jeanne - Texas, Zone " 8B i prefer to say 9 "
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Bluewillow  Send Bluewillow a private message!


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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 09:34 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jeanne....did you have to cut the wire yourself, if so what tool did the job? Did you end up using the L bracket she mentioned, to keep the wire from the house so the plants can climb easily?

I am even thinking of using it against my fence also for the tomato to climb on

Bluewillow - Canada, Zone "Zone 5"
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Plantindude  Send Plantindude a private message!




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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 10:00 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

One method I've seen used bluewillow that works pretty good and I is better then attaching any thing directly to the brick ,is too put in 2 4x4x12 fence post,sounds big right,gotta make sure sink them below your frost line so you get frost heave ,put one on the inside of either window and stretch chicken across the 2 sections going all the too the top ,you also use the wider grid style fencing like in jeanne's photo. you can cap each post with a decorative postcap bought at the same place you would buy your other supply's. You can buy a standard rose arbor or archway from any garden supply ,but can get costly. this is relatively inexpensive ,if you got an aggressive climber ,plenty of higth,it'll also keep your plants off the wall of the house and allow good air circulation around the plants,which in turn helps them stay healthy and keeps the moisture from the walls of the house,even brick mortar can slowly have problems if it stays constantly wet.

Plantindude - Ohio, Zone "5"
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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 10:04 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Plantindude wrote on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 10:00 am:

so you get frost

meant to say so you don't get frost heave and it pushes your post out of the ground

Plantindude - Ohio, Zone "5"
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Bluewillow  Send Bluewillow a private message!


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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 10:15 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thx Michael...I don't think that is going to work for me, you know why? I have the foots of my under contruction pergola right at the edge of that bed, with 6x6 posts



All that area under the pergola is going to be patio stones come summer, so we can sit under it

Bluewillow - Canada, Zone "Zone 5"
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Heirloomgardens  Send Heirloomgardens a private message!



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Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 02:59 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Ooooh, Jeanne, what a lovely photo! That's the perfect combo.

Bluewillow, depending on what you decide to grow, you can use trellis net (like you'd grow heavy veggies on). It's pretty much invisible and you might be able to get away with just anchoring it to the wall or under the eaves with small brackets and a tension wire across the top, and then just use landscape fabric anchors to keep the base of the net in place. (I'm sort of in the same boat. I want to grow Dutchman's Pipe Vine up the front of my house. My house is old and wooden, so I'm sort of leery of mounting anything directly on the walls, although Gardenbug once suggested using my old ladders as trellises on the front of my house. I still think that's a cool idea, just not sure how I'd anchor them on there securely.) Wow, that's an awesome site you linked us to.

Heirloomgardens - Massachusetts, Zone "5b"
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Oldiebutgoodie  Send Oldiebutgoodie a private message!


Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2008 - 03:15 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi, Bluewillow -

I think the following method will work for you. If you're handy with tools or know someone who is, get a high powered drill with a masonary bit and put plugs into the brick or the masonary between the bricks. Then get long threaded screws and attach whatever you like directly to your wall. (Make sure you buy long enough screws then match them up with the appropriate sized plugs and masonary bit.) If you want to have the trellis away from the wall, you can buy spacers. Keep the bottom of the trellis a couple of inches from the ground to allow for frost heave and/or snow and ice, etc.

Oldiebutgoodie - Ontario, Zone "5b"
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Bluewillow  Send Bluewillow a private message!


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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 06:45 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Oldie..Am I handy you say? Check the link below for my handiwork :-)

http://www.gardenbuddies.com/forum/messages/4335/111139541.html

When you say plugs...do you mind posting a pic of what you mean? I do have a drill with all sorts of masonary bits, and I know it's better to drill into the mortar, rather than the brick.

Bluewillow - Canada, Zone "Zone 5b"
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Jeanne  Send Jeanne a private message!



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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 07:59 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


BlueWillow..Yes I just used wire cutters to cut and drilled holes in my brick with a mason drill bit and used the "L" brackets...Jeanne
ps..thanks HeirloomGardens
I keep a roll of it and have used it in many applications..here on a new vinyl arbor to use to tie up my roses and aid my clematis in something to cling to
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Here I used it to wrap a post on my pergola for my clematis to cling on
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Jeanne - Texas, Zone " 8B i prefer to say 9 "
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 09:17 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi, Mick -

See http://www.machine-screw-anchor.com/ for the kind of plugs (aka wall anchors) I mean. They're available at most hardware/building supply outlets. If you're not putting up a decorative trellis, perhaps some of the other suggestions would be more appropriate.

Please be sure to post a photo of your results.

Oldiebutgoodie - Ontario, Zone "5b"
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Kasia  Send Kasia a private message!




Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 09:52 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Here is another option:
http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=1&p=47472&cat=2,33286

We installed this 2 or 3 years ago, it supports a very large clematis and is practically invisible. And you don't need to drill through the brick.
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Kasia - Ontario, Zone "5b"
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 09:53 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sometimes my old brain isn't functioning as well as it should. I ought to have explained the way the plugs work. You simply drill the appropriate sized hole, then pound the plug into the wall just like the yellow plastic kind made for drywall, and even less conspicuous.

Oldiebutgoodie - Ontario, Zone "5b"
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 10:08 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


Oldie..they are called Plastic Anchors..I, myself use them after drilling the holes in the brick or concrete..you just hammer them in the hole and they are great...Jeanne

Jeanne - Texas, Zone " 8B i prefer to say 9 "
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Bluewillow  Send Bluewillow a private message!


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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 11:04 am EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Katherine....thx 4 that, it does have some invisible form to it, making it less of an eyesore.

Cheers

Bluewillow - Canada, Zone "Zone 5b"
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Loretta  Send Loretta a private message!



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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 12:06 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Kasia, I like that system. It doesn't show a weight rating though.
I didn't want to bring it up but now that others have, I do have some issues with attaching these metal fabrics to brick and siding in general. (sorry, I can't help it, I use to inspect brickwork in NYC).
One is, if you are going to drill into the side of your house, each penetration should be caulked to prevent water entry. Caulk only lasts a few years and is a maintenance item. Brick can spall (face chips off) from freeze and thaw cycles. Grout can loosen.
If unlike metals touch, they will corrode and perhaps stain. Bare metals should be hot dip galvanized (not just galvanized) or better or they will rust and stain. All metals should be rust resistant.
That's all.

Loretta - NJ, Zone "6"
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 12:49 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I don't use the plastic variety of plugs, Jeanne. The ones I use are made of lead. Loretta's right about caulking them, but I've never had problems with rust or staining.

I really like the Lee Valley Tools idea. Even with the cost of shipping and handling, it's not too expensive. Like Loretta, I'm not sure how much weight it would hold.

When I suggested the lead wall anchors, I was assuming (duh) that Mick was going to put up a decorative metal or wooden trellis. You'd definitely need the wall anchors for anything heavy.

Oldiebutgoodie - Ontario, Zone "5b"
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 01:03 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well, rust would be a metal with some iron. Lead develops a black patina. I guess it also depends on the environment too. Pollution, salt, humidity, freezing temps, etc.

Loretta - NJ, Zone "6"
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Bluewillow  Send Bluewillow a private message!


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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 01:19 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If I was going to use the method in the link below, I'll paint first to avoid corrosion

http://www.westvalleyrose.org/roseinfo/climbersinthelandscape.html

I guess another way to cover that wall, will be to use 2 staking rods standing freely on each side, and then attach the wire to it like so

http://www.durgan.org/2007/September%202007/14%20September%202007%20Cherry% 20Tomato%20Sweet%20Million/HTML/dsc_7468.htm

http://www.durgan.org/2007/September%202007/14%20September%202007%20Cherry% 20Tomato%20Sweet%20Million/HTML/dsc_7369.htm

Bluewillow - London UK, Now Canada, Zone "Zone 5b"
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 01:45 pm EST :   Last Buddysize PhotosCopy highlighted text to new message Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I don't think there was a weight rating on the package. As long as you follow the instructions, the anchors stay on for good. I was a little concerned at first about how well it will withstand the winter freeze and the winds (this clem is on the east wall of the house, open to the north winds which knocked off our BBQ from the deck this fall), but it's been 3 years and all the anchors are still attached. The clematis is now about 14 ft tall and very full. I think you could make it stronger by spacing the anchors closer together.

For us it was the only option as my dh refuses to drill in the brick .

Kasia - Ontario, Zone "5b"
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Posted on Monday, January 14, 2008 - 08:09 pm EST :   Last Buddysize Photos